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About Carbon Monoxide
The Senseless Killer
U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Washington, DC 20207
Govt. Printing Office: 1993 0-356-764
“Every year, nearly 300 people in the Unites States die from this toxic gas. Can you tell - can you smell - what gas it is?”
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What is Carbon Monoxide?
Carbon monoxide is produced by burning any fuel. Therefore, any fuel-burning appliance in your home is a potential CO source.
When appliances are kept in good working condition, they produce little CO. Improperly operating appliances can produce fatal CO concentrations in your home. Likewise, using charcoal indoors or running a car in a garage can cause CO poisoning.
The initial symptoms of CO are similar to the flu (but without the fever). They include:
- Dizziness
- Fatigue
- Headache
- Nausea
- Irregular breathing
Remember, if you have any of these symptoms and if you feel better when you go outside your home and the symptoms reappear once you're back inside, you may have CO poisoning.
Clues You Can See...
- Rusting or water streaking on vent/chimney
- Loose or missing furnace panel
- Sooting
- Loose or disconnected vent/chimney connections
- Debris or soot falling from chimney, fireplace, or appliance
- Loose masonry on chimney
- Moisture inside of windows
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SOURCES OF AND CLUES TO A POSSIBLE CARBON MONOXIDE PROBLEM
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- Room heaters
- Furnace
- Charcoal Grill
- Gas Range/Ovens
- Water Heaters
- Auto in closed garage
- Fireplace
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Clues You Cannot See...
- Internal appliance damage or malfunctioning components
- Improper burner adjustment
- Hidden blockage or damage in chimney
What Can You Do?
- Make sure appliances are installed according to manufacturer's instructions and local building codes. Most appliances should be installed by professionals.
- Have the heating system (including chimneys and vents) inspected and serviced annually.
- Follow manufacturer's directions for safe operation.
- Examine vents and chimney regularly for improper connections, visible rust or stains.
- Notice problems that could indicate improper appliance operation:
- Decreasing hot water supply
- Furnace unable to heat house or runs constantly
- Sooting, especially on appliances
- Unfamiliar or burning odor
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Install a CO Alarm for Added Safety
Must meet the requirements of UL 2034-98
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What You Should Not Do...
- Never burn charcoal indoors or in a garage.
- Never service appliances without proper knowledge, skills, and tools.
- Never use the gas range or oven for heating.
- Never leave a car running in a garage.
- Never operate unvented gas-burning appliances in a closed room
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NOTE:
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency suggests that if you suspect that you are experiencing carbon monoxide poisoning, get fresh air immediately. Open windows and doors for more ventilation, turn off any combustion appliances, and leave the house. You could lose consciousness and die from carbon monoxide poisoning if you do nothing. It is also important to contact a doctor IMMEDIATELY for a proper diagnosis. Remember to tell your doctor that you suspect carbon monoxide poisoning is causing your problems. Prompt medical attention is important.
Proper attention and maintenance of combustion appliances in the home is most important in reducing the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. A carbon monoxide alarm can provide added protection, but is no substitute for proper use and upkeep of potential carbon monoxide sources. No detector is 100% reliable, and some individuals may experience health problems at levels of carbon monoxide below the detection sensitivity of these devices.
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About Combustion
Preventing Problems with Combustion Equipment
Combustion appliances are those which burn fuels for warmth, cooking, or decorative purposes. Typical fuels are gas, both natural and liquefied petroleum (LP); kerosene; oil; coal; and wood. Examples include space heaters, ranges, furnaces, fireplaces, water heaters, and clothes dryers. These appliances are usually safe. However, under certain conditions (see below), these appliances can release harmful or deadly combustion pollutants into the home (commonly called combustion spillage or backdrafting. In addition, unvented or improperly vented appliances can add large amounts of moisture to the air, potentially resulting in both biological growth, and damage to the house. Proper selection, installation, inspection, and maintenance of combustion appliances are extremely important. Providing good ventilation can also can reduce exposure to combustion pollutants.
Things to consider when remodeling your home are listed below:
Read equipment's home owner manual and instructions. Make sure equipment receives regular professional inspection and maintenance.
It is important that you understand how to properly operate combustion equipment in your homes, and that you follow the manufacturer's recommendations for maintaining the equipment. Have your combustion appliances and your chimney regularly inspected and maintained to reduce your exposure to pollutants. Appliances that are not working properly can release harmful and even fatal amounts of pollutants, especially carbon monoxide, into the living space.
Avoid un-Vented Space Heaters
Take special precautions when operating unvented fuel-burning space heaters.
Consider the potential indoor air pollution effects if you use an unvented kerosene or gas space heater. Follow the manufacturer's directions, especially instructions on the proper fuel and keeping the heater properly adjusted. A persistent yellow-tipped flame is generally an indicator of improper adjustment and increased pollutant emissions. While a space heater is in use, open a door from the room where the heater is located to the rest of the house and open a window slightly when installing unvented (or "vent-free") space or water heating appliances is in use.
Unvented appliances leave all combustion products in the house. Even if incomplete combustion pollutants such as carbon monoxide (CO) are kept to a minimum, these appliances can generate large amounts of moisture which can create its own problems. Unvented heaters require special precautions.
When replacing heating equipment, consider using only sealed-combustion, induced draft, or power-vented furnaces, boilers, and water heaters.
Traditionally, combustion equipment relied on natural draft, the tendency for the warm combustion air to rise up a chimney. Today's more efficient equipment does not waste as much energy or send as much heat up the chimney, weakening natural draft. Natural draft can at times be overcome by conditions that depressurize the house, leading to spillage, backdrafting, and the problems associated with combustion products in the house.
Most new equipment usually features sealed combustion or power-venting. The risk of backdrafting is lower with these types of equipment than for those relying on natural draft.
Sealed combustion equipment draws its combustion air directly from outside the home. The combustion products are exhausted directly out of the home. The air intakes and exhaust are sealed off from the inside of the home, and this greatly reduces the change for any spillage of combustion products into the home.
While induced draft and power-vented appliances rely on air in the home for combustion, they use a fan to force pollutants out of the home. This reduces the chance of natural draft being overcome be other fans or pressures in the home.
Use a properly sized range hood fan if you use a gas range.
All kitchens should have exhaust ventilation to remove odors and excess moisture associated with cooking. While there are various ventilation strategies for kitchens, a range hood is the most common. When using a gas range, a range hood directly vented to the outside should be used to capture the combustion products. These range hoods should be sized correctly. For a typical kitchen range the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) and the Home Ventilation Institute (HVI) recommend 100 cfm. Larger fans may need to have makeup air provided to avoid excessively depressurizing the house, causing backdrafting or other problems.
After installation of combustion and/or ventilation equipment, combustion equipment should be tested to be sure that it functions properly.
It is important that your installer conducts a worst-case depressurization test. This combustion safety test determines if any non-sealed combustion appliances will backdraft or spill combustion products into the living space. Tell your installer this test should use an established procedure such as Appendix D of the International Fuel and Gas Code or ASTM E1998 "Guide for Assessing Backdrafting and Spillage from Vented Combustion Appliances"
Vent clothes dryers to the outside.
Always vent clothes dryers directly outside. In addition to combustion products produced by gas dryers, all dryers generate large amounts of moisture and particulates which should be vented out of the house before they have the opportunity to create problems.
Consider installing a Carbon Monoxide Alarm.
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless gas which at high levels can cause serious illness and death. CO Alarms are widely available and should be considered a back-up to BUT NOT A REPLACEMENT for proper installation, use, and maintenance of fuel-burning appliances. CO Alarms are designed to warn you of any unusual build-up of CO in your home. These higher levels of CO may occur from improperly maintained, installed or used fuel-burning appliances, backdrafting appliances or fireplaces, or idling cars in garages. If a CO Alarm is to be installed:
- Make sure the device is certified to the most current Underwriters Laboratory (UL) standard 2034 (1998) or the International Approval Services (IAS) 6-96 (2nd Edition) standard.
- Install a CO alarm monitor in the hallway near every separate sleeping area.
- Be aware of all instructions and warnings associated with the CO Alarm.
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About Moisture and Combustion
Controlling Moisture
Too much moisture in a home can lead to mold, mildew, and other biological growth. This in turn can lead to a variety of health effects ranging from more common allergic reactions, to asthma attacks, and hypersensitivity pneumonitits, for example. Excess moisture can be in the form of high relative humidity including humidity generated by people and their activities such as showers, cooking, or drying clothes. Water can also come from plumbing leaks, wet boots, or splashing around sinks. Moisture can travel with infiltrating outdoor air (or exfiltrating indoor air) through the building shell, including the foundation. In addition to health problems, high relative humidity or water that enters building cavities that is not allowed to dry quickly can lead to problems such as rot, structural damage, and premature paint failure.
Methods to control moisture include building an energy-efficient home with proper air-sealing, proper use of vapor barriers and vapor diffusion strategies. The entire building envelope, from the foundation to the roof, should be designed to not only prevent moisture entry, but also to allow any moisture which does enter a means to escape. As mentioned above, people and their activities in a home are big sources of moisture; thus proper ventilation is also important in order to maintain indoor humidity levels within an acceptable range.
Moisture Control Techniques
1. Manage water outside the foundation walls.
The ground around the home's foundation should be graded to slope down and away from the house at a rate of 1/2" to 1" per linear foot to drain surface water away from the house. Water from down spouts should be directed away from the house, discharging at least a few feet from the foundation. Test any underground drains with a hose to make sure they are working properly. Drains that are not working should be repaired or replaced with an elbow discharge described above. Be sure that driveways, sidewalks, and patios slope down and away from foundation walls at 1/4" per linear foot. In extreme cases, you may have to dig out around the foundation and replace the fill with an exterior drain tile and with a good draining material such a clean gravel. Because this can be very expensive in existing homes, you should get a few opinions as to whether this is necessary. In some areas, there may not be enough room outside the dwelling to provide proper drainage - in these cases, it is often recommended that interior drain tile and a sump pump be installed to remove water from basements and crawlspaces. This also can be very expensive.
2. Manage water inside the foundation walls and in the basement or crawl space floor.
If the basement or crawl space has a dirt floor, cover it with 6 mil poly, overlapping edges by at least 12 inches. Seal any cracks or joints in the foundation wall or slab with an elastomeric caulk.
3. Use construction techniques to control water, air movement, vapor diffusion, and condensation. Use construction methods and materials which promote the drying of building assemblies.
Use construction techniques which reduce the likelihood that warm, moist air will come in contact with cold surfaces, leading to condensation, mold growth, and rot. This includes controlling air movement and using vapor barriers on the warm side of walls and roofs. Proper flashing and drainage techniques should be used to keep rainwater out. There are different strategies to achieve this, and the strategies vary widely depending on the climate. For a good discussion of the approaches, consult a building manual such as the Energy Efficient Building Association's (EEBA) Builders Guide for your climate.
4. Roofs.
It is important that the roof and flashing details and construction effectively keep water out of the house. It is also important that the roof and attic design addresses the issue of moisture in the form of water vapor to avoid condensation in building cavities. There is no single strategy which will work for all houses in all climate conditions. The important considerations are preventing movement of moisture from the warm side to the cold side of the building envelope, and managing moisture which does pass through the envelope to prevent condensation on building materials.
5. Ensure the home is properly ventilated, with at least exhaust fans in the bathroom and kitchen and preferably a mechanical ventilation system designed to ventilate the entire house.
High relative humidity (RH) can lead to problems with mold, dust mites, and other biological pollutants. Using exhaust fans in the bathrooms and kitchen can remove much of the moisture that builds up from everyday activities and help to keep RH below 50%. There are exhaust fans on the market that produce little noise, an important consideration for some people. Another benefit to using kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans is that they can also exhaust odors and pollutants from these rooms. These fans can be part of an active ventilation system for the entire house, and help to reduce humidity levels. Vent bathroom, kitchen, and clothes dryer/laundry room exhausts directly to the outside, not into an attic or other enclosed space.
6. Size Air-Conditioning Equipment correctly.
More is not always better. Incorrectly sized equipment can lead to operational and cost problems. Oversized air conditioning systems can "short-cycle" leading to rapid cooling without reducing indoor humidity levels. This can lead to a variety of problems associated with high relative humidity. Heat gain and heat loss should be determined for each house. The Air Conditioning Contractors Association (ACCA) provides a recognized standard procedure in the publication, Manual J. Equipment should be sized for each individual house because even identically built homes will be affected by variations such as solar orientation and shading which affect heating and cooling loads.
Correct refrigerant charge (not under- or over-charged) and proper maintenance are also necessary for optimum performance of air conditioners.
7. Low Relative Humidity.
Below 30 percent relative humidity, people can be uncomfortable and can suffer from dry mucus membranes which can lead to nosebleeds and infections. In general, low relative humidity is only a problem during the winter months, when the outside air contains very little moisture. It is this dry outside air entering the home through cracks and openings in the building shell that causes the inside air to become dry. The greater the amount of outside air which leaks into the house, the dryer the indoor air becomes. By air-sealing and using energy-efficient construction, uncontrolled air leakage is greatly reduced, a more controlled indoor environment is created, and moisture can be maintained at acceptable levels without the use of a humidifier. Humidifiers require maintenance to avoid becoming breeding grounds for bacteria and molds.
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Back drafting CO gas
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About Combustion and Backdrafting
Combustion Appliance Backdrafting
As we exhaust air from our homes, and as air naturally leaks out of our homes because of wind or the stack effect, it is replaced by outdoor air. If we exhaust a lot of air, we can depressurize the home. Sufficient depressurization can actually pull air and combustion products back down a chimney or any flue, such as that of a gas water heater, and into the house. Because of the harmful substances, such as carbon Monoxide, in combustion gases, this depressurization can create a very dangerous situation.
Forces working to depressurize a home include those shown in the figure below, bathroom exhaust fans, kitchen range hoods, and clothes dryers. Other forces not shown in the diagram include the fireplaces, leaky return ducts near combustion equipment, leaky supply ducts outside the conditioned space, wind, and the stack effect (warm air rising in a building tends to depressurize lower areas). If these forces are great enough, they can work to suck air and combustion products back down the chimney or flue and into the house, as shown by the red arrows in the diagram.
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Source: Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
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About Combustion Carbon Monoxide
Carbon Monoxide Questions and Answers
- What is carbon monoxide (CO) and how is it produced in the home?
Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, odorless, poisonous gas. It is produced by the incomplete burning of solid, liquid, and gaseous fuels. Appliances fueled with natural gas, liquefied petroleum (LP gas), oil, kerosene, coal, or wood may produce CO. Burning charcoal produces CO. Running cars produce CO.
- How many people are unintentionally poisoned by CO?
Every year, over 200 people in the United States die from CO produced by fuel-burning appliances (furnaces, ranges, water heaters, room heaters). Others die from CO produced while burning charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle or tent. Still others die from CO produced by cars left running in attached garages. Several thousand people go to hospital emergency rooms for treatment for CO poisoning.
- What are the symptoms of CO poisoning?
The initial symptoms of CO poisoning are similar to the flu (but without the fever). They include:
- Headache
- Fatigue
- Shortness of breath
- Nausea
- Dizziness
Many people with CO poisoning mistake their symptoms for the flu or are misdiagnosed by physicians, which sometimes results in tragic deaths.
- What should you do to prevent CO poisoning?
- Make sure appliances are installed according to manufacturer's instructions and local building codes. Most appliances should be installed by professionals. Have the heating system (including chimneys and vents) inspected and serviced annually. The inspector should also check chimneys and flues for blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections.
- Install a CO detector and alarm that meets the requirements of the current UL standard 2034 or the requirements of the IAS 6-96 standard. A carbon monoxide detector/alarm can provide added protection, but is no substitute for proper use and upkeep of appliances that can produce CO. Install a CO detector/alarm in the hallway near every separate sleeping area of the home. Make sure the detector cannot be covered up by furniture or draperies.
- Never burn charcoal inside a home, garage, vehicle, or tent.
- Never use portable fuel-burning camping equipment inside a home, garage, vehicle, or tent.
- Never leave a car running in an attached garage, even with the garage door open.
- Never service fuel-burning appliances without proper knowledge, skills, and tools. Always refer to the owner's manual when performing minor adjustments or servicing fuel-burning appliances.
- Never use gas appliances such as ranges, ovens, or clothes dryers for heating your home.
- Never operate unvented fuel-burning appliances in any room with closed doors or windows or in any room where people are sleeping.
- Do not use gasoline-powered tools and engines indoors. If use is unavoidable, ensure that adequate ventilation is available and whenever possible place engine unit to exhaust outdoors.
- What CO level is dangerous to your health?
The health effects of CO depend on the level of CO and length of exposure, as well as each individual's health condition. The concentration of CO is measured in parts per million (ppm). Health effects from exposure to CO levels of approximately 1 to 70 ppm are uncertain, but most people will not experience any symptoms. Some heart patients might experience an increase in chest pain. As CO levels increase and remain above 70 ppm, symptoms may become more noticeable (headache, fatigue, nausea). As CO levels increase above 150 to 200 ppm, disorientation, unconsciousness, and death are possible.
- What should you do if you are experiencing symptoms of CO poisoning?
If you think you are experiencing any of the symptoms of CO poisoning, get fresh air immediately. Open windows and doors for more ventilation, turn off any combustion appliances, and leave the house. Call your fire department and report your symptoms. You could lose consciousness and die if you do nothing. It is also important to contact a doctor immediately for a proper diagnosis. Tell your doctor that you suspect CO poisoning is causing your problems. Prompt medical attention is important if you are experiencing any symptoms of CO poisoning when you are operating fuel-burning appliances. Before turning your fuel-burning appliances back on, make sure a qualified serviceperson checks them for malfunction.
- What has changed in CO detectors/alarms recently?
CO detectors/alarms always have been and still are designed to alarm before potentially life-threatening levels of CO are reached. The UL standard 2034 (1998 revision) has stricter requirements that the detector/alarm must meet before it can sound. As a result, the possibility of nuisance alarms is decreased.
- What should you do when the CO detector/alarm sounds?
Never ignore an alarming CO detector/alarm. If the detector/alarm sounds: Operate the reset button. Call your emergency services (fire department or 911). Immediately move to fresh air -- outdoors or by an open door/window.
- How should a consumer test a CO detector/alarm to make sure it is working?
Consumers should follow the manufacturer's instructions. Using a test button, some detectors/alarms test whether the circuitry as well as the sensor which senses CO is working, while the test button on other detectors only tests whether the circuitry is working. For those units which test the circuitry only, some manufacturers sell separate test kits to help the consumer test the CO sensor inside the alarm.
- What is the role of the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) in preventing CO poisoning?
CPSC worked closely with Underwriters Laboratories (UL) to help develop the safety standard (UL 2034) for CO detectors/alarms. CPSC helps promote carbon monoxide safety awareness to raise awareness of CO hazards and the need for regular maintenance of fuel-burning appliances. CPSC recommends that every home have a CO detector/alarm that meets the requirements of the most recent UL standard 2034 or the IAS 6-96 standard in the hallway near every separate sleeping area. CPSC also works with industry to develop voluntary and mandatory standards for fuel-burning appliances.
- Do some cities require that CO detectors/alarms be installed?
On September 15, 1993, Chicago, Illinois became one of the first cities in the nation to adopt an ordinance requiring, effective October 1, 1994, the installation of CO detectors/alarms in all new single-family homes and in existing single-family residences that have new oil or gas furnaces. Several other cities also require CO detectors/alarms in apartment buildings and single-family dwellings.
- Should CO detectors/alarms be used in motor homes and other recreational vehicles?
CO detectors/alarms are available for boats and recreational vehicles and should be used. The Recreation Vehicle Industry Association requires CO detectors/alarms in motor homes and in towable recreational vehicles that have a generator or are prepped for a generator.
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 Source: Consumer Product Safety Commission ((CPSC)
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A Few Words About CO Detectors
Carbon Monoxide Detectors are widely available in stores and you may want to consider buying one as a back-up --BUT NOT AS A REPLACEMENT for proper use and maintenance of your fuel-burning appliances. However, it is important for you to know that the technology of CO detectors is still developing, that there are several types on the market, and that they are not generally considered to be as reliable as the smoke detectors found in homes today. Some CO detectors have been laboratory-tested, and their performance varied. Some performed well, others failed to alarm even at very high CO levels, and still others alarmed even at very low levels that don’t pose any immediate health risk. And unlike a smoke detector, where you can easily confirm the cause of the alarm, CO is invisible and odorless, so its harder to tell if an alarm is false or a real emergency.
So What is a Consumer to Do?
First, don’t let buying a CO detector fool you into a false sense of security. Preventing CO from becoming a problem in your home is better than relying on an alarm. Follow the checklist of DOs and DON’Ts.
Second, if you shop for a CO detector, do some research on features and don’t select solely on the basis of cost. Non-governmental organizations such as Consumers Union (publisher of Consumer Reports), the American Gas Association, and Underwriters Laboratories (UL) can help you make an informed decision. Look for UL certification on any detector you purchase.
Carefully follow manufacturers instructions for its placement, use, and maintenance.
If the CO detector alarm goes off:
- Make sure it is your CO detector and not your smoke detector.
- Check to see if any member of the household is experiencing symptoms of poisoning.
- If they are, get them out of the house immediately and seek medical attention. Tell the doctor that you suspect CO poisoning.
- If no one is feeling symptoms, ventilate the home with fresh air, turn off all potential sources of CO -- your oil or gas furnace, gas water heater, gas range and oven, gas dryer, gas or kerosene space heater and any vehicle or small engine.
- Have a qualified technician inspect your fuel-burning appliances and chimneys to make sure they are operating correctly and that there is nothing blocking the fumes from being vented out of the house.
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CPSC and EPA Disclaimer:
The information provided on this page is based upon the CPSC and EPA's current scientific and technical understanding of the issues presented. Following the advice given will not necessarily provide complete protection in all situations or against all health hazards that may be caused by indoor air pollution and other indoor environmental contaminants. Mention of any trade names or commercial products does not constitute CPSC or EPA endorsement or recommendation for use.
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DSA Disclaimer: (AAPI,inc.) makes no claim as to the accuracy of the information provided above, which is reprinted as a courtesy to the reader from a CPSC/EPA document. The reader should conduct their own independent research to verify the accuracy of CPSC and EPA's information
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Source: Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) and Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)
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Copyright 1992 - 2012 aapiinfo.com, Inc. All rights reserved
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